Which metal to choose? Read up on the similarities and differences between Sterling Silver, Gold-Fill, and 14K Yellow Gold.
Sterling Silver
Composition
Sterling silver is considered to be an alloy (mix) of metals, generally comprised of 92.5% silver and 7.5% alternative metals (Typically copper). Due to the fragility of pure silver it is essential to include additional metals if the design is expected to maintain stability. It is fairly rare to find jewelry (particularly rings) offered in pure silver.
It is important to note than many people have sensitive skin or allergies- The good news is, these allergies are almost always caused by small traces of Nickel in the material. While some Silvers do contain Nickel, Sterling silver does not, and is safe for those with Nickel allergies!
Design limitations
Sterling Silver has the fewest limitations when it comes to jewelry construction (At least at Flux & Forge). This is because solder (The meltable metal used to fuse pieces together) comes in several different "strengths" which represent melting temperatures. This allows for more complex elements (Such as stamping or cast pieces) to be added at a lower melting temperature without risking the stability of the foundation of the piece.
Pricing
Sterling Silver is also one of the least expensive metals used for jewelry construction. This has nothing to do with the quality of the material but simply the supply. As a naturally occurring element, there is simply more silver available than gold. At the time of this article pure silver by oz. costs approx. $26. Metal prices are tracked daily and I like to reference Rio Grande (My supplier) for accurate pricing.
To put the cost in jewelry terms- a simple bezel ring like the following would cost $83. (I will use this same dendritic agate ring to provide cost estimates in other metals.)
14K Yellow Gold
Composition
Understanding the composition of gold really relies on understanding Karat (Not to be confused with "Carat" used to measure weight, usually of diamonds). Karat represents the percentage of gold that is in the material. 24K is considered to be 100% pure gold, but pure gold can be extremely soft and is not ideal for daily wear jewelry. In my history of working in the jewelry business I see 18K and 14K as the most frequently used.
18K is approx. 75% pure gold, and 14K 58.5% pure.
Additionally, Karat impacts the yellowness of the gold. The higher the karat the more yellow the gold. I prefer a more subtle gold, hence my use of 14K- additionally this allows me to provide a more reasonable price point for my customers!
As far as allergies go, It is possible to have a gold allergy- especially if you have allergies to other metals. Yellow gold can contain nickel but is typically alloyed, or combined, with silver or copper to avoid this.
Design limitations
Gold has some design limitations and is best suited to simpler designs. Some jewelers create designs out of wax and then cast them, but this is not currently something Flux & Forge does. Also, the price of gold is exponentially higher than silver, so the simpler the design the more affordable.
Pricing
Like Silver, the price of gold is driven by availability. As a naturally occurring element, pure gold is a rarity. I was fortunate enough to grow up with a Geophysicist for a Dad, and saw the amount of resources that go into gold mining for the small amount of material excavated. At the time of this article gold stands at approx. $1736- Compared to $26 for silver. Metal prices are tracked daily and I like to reference Rio Grande (My supplier) for accurate pricing.
The simple dendritic agate ring shown at the beginning of this article would cost approx. $582 in solid 14K Yellow gold.
Gold Filled
Composition
Gold filled metal is a layer of gold bonded to a "base" metal (Almost all of the gold filled metal I use has a brass base. In order for a metal to be considered gold filled it must comprise of at least 5% of the total weight. Since the gold is bonded to the outside layer the metal displays as 14K gold, but the material inside is not gold.
So, What is the difference between this, and gold plating? The amount of gold is about 100x higher with gold fill than it is with vermeil or plating.
Risk of allergies is nearly identical to 14K gold, since this is the metal that will be in contact with skin.
Here is a visual comparison of gold metals & compositions
Design limitations
Gold-fill has more flexibility than 14K Gold, but less than Sterling Silver. First, Gold fill can be soldered using yellow silver, brass, or gold-- all of which impact the price. Generally at Flux & Forge we use gold solder for a more 'true' gold appearance.
Also, once the gold fill is 'cut' the base metal is exposed and needs to be maintained well to prevent the base metal from tarnishing.
Pricing
I personally LOVE gold filled jewelry- it looks like solid gold, at a MUCH friendlier price point! Seriously, no one will know it isnt gold but you! Generally gold-filled jewelry is 10-25% more expensive than silver and can save you hundreds of dollars for a beautiful piece of jewelry.
The simple dendritic agate ring shown at the beginning of this article would cost approx. $122 in gold fill.